http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2009/feb/12/gordon-ramsay-french-restaurant


Gordon Ramsay's French restaurants savaged by food critic

Le Trianon wins two Michelin stars, but François Simon says its food is "boring and pompous"




Gordon Ramsay's foray into France's restaurant business has apparently won him two stars from food bible Michelin, but also prompted accusations that it is "boring, pompous and very expensive" from the country's foremost, and most feared critic.

The fine-dining eatery at the Trianon Palace hotel near the Palace of Versailles, outside Paris has fallen short of the most coveted three-star rating, less than a year after its opening, according to France Soir newspaper, but that didn't stop a reopening of Anglo-French culinary hostilities.

Michelin, whose British awards were leaked ahead of publication last month is not announcing its French winners until next month. François Simon, critic for Le Figaro, while praising Ramsay's hard work and talent, attacked his "cuisine of duplication". He complained: "In other words, he could open 100 restaurants like this one, the only limit being a human one - he needs to find 100 chefs. Repetitive cuisine is not interesting. It's like a photocopier: it is Xerox food."

According to the Daily Telegraph, he added: "Quite frankly, it's just another gastronomic restaurant: boring, pompous and expensive. It was fine, but I'd already eaten the same thing in Tokyo and in his restaurants in London."

A spokesman for Ramsay, who once told a British interviewer: "I've had a bellyful of the French coming over here and telling us how shit our food is," said: "We would, of course, be delighted to be awarded two Michelin stars, but are waiting for the results to be announced on 2 March. Gordon is very involved in all aspects of the running of his restaurants and has full faith in the team at Gordon Ramsay at Le Trianon, and all of the restaurants in the group."